37 Communes

View of Santiago and the Andes with the shadow of the Gran Torre Santiago

Winter is here. The past few mornings the temperature has been near 0 degrees celsius. A far change from where we started this trip but we were ready.

We spent the last few days with Lisette Matamala, our guide from Abercrombie & Kent who guided us on a quick tour of Valparaiso and Santiago. She filled in the history and structure of Chile in a great way. One of the first things she said I found interesting was Santiago is not one large city but 37 separate communes working together. Each has a mayor who is a peer to all other mayors, none is above the other. Decisions that cover the entire Santiago urban environment come from the Chile government. Very interesting IMHO. Another item she mentioned was Chile has “more rules than the Pope”, i.e. rules that no one wants but are enforced and obeyed. For the example she showed us a newly painted building in a Santiago bohemian district that apparently had a remarkable graffiti mural on it that was much beloved. The rule say graffiti murals can only stay for two years so the rule was enforced and the building was painted. Sigh. Lisette covered so much and gave us what it was like to live here past and present, I cannot do her credit.

Palacio de La Moneda
Palacio de La Moneda

Some of the places Lisette took us include Palacio de La Moneda (Presidential Palace) and the Centro Cultural Palacio la Moneda (which is underground in front of the presidential palace), Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral and Mercado Central de Santiago filling us with history. And food, great empanadas at Emporio Zunino and wonderful ice cream at Emporio La Rosa. I will need to exercise when I get home. Thanks Lisette!

Memorial to Salvador Allende
Memorial to Salvador Allende
Inside Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago
Inside Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago
Art and Police (and horses)
Art and Police (and horses)
Streets of Santiago
Streets of Santiago
Streets of Santiago
Streets of Santiago
Some entertainment outside Emporio Zunino
Some entertainment outside Emporio Zunino
Emporio Zunino
Emporio Zunino
Syd collects our empanadas at Emporio Zunino
Syd collects our empanadas at Emporio Zunino
Mercado Central de Santiago
Mercado Central de Santiago
Fish for sale at the Mercado Central de Santiago
Fish for sale at the Mercado Central de Santiago

One thing I liked about Chile is its rich history of immigrants, people came from many places to make their fortunes here, Italians, Croatians, Germans. One of the leaders of Chilean independence was Bernardo O’Higgins if that tells you anything. I had no idea.

Gran Torre Santiago
Gran Torre Santiago
Syd at the top of Gran Torre Santiago
Syd at the top of Gran Torre Santiago
View of Santiago and the Andes with the shadow of the Gran Torre Santiago
View of Santiago and the Andes with the shadow of the Gran Torre Santiago
View from Gran Torre Santiago
View from Gran Torre Santiago

After 2+ weeks on the road we are worn out on restaurant food and resorted to an old habit of ours, hitting up the local grocery stores and making our own meal. We started this habit on our first trip to save money but as it turns out we really enjoyed doing this because it gave us a chance to see what local life is like so we kept it up. The nearest grocery store to us is Jumbo, a “you can buy (almost) anything” type of store. Very large and had the widest selection of yogurt I have ever seen. Walking to the store in the cold winter air Kim (who is never cold but was wearing two jackets) mentioned she thought it was odd we were out shopping in Santiago. I responded it was bound to happen sometime.

A different look at the crown of the Gran Torre Santiago
A different look at the crown of the Gran Torre Santiago

Time to go home.

45 Hills

I like the irony in this photo.

Our first tour in Chile proper took us to Valparaiso, a coastal port that is a university town and home to Chile’s Bohemian art scene. Like California, Chile has a coast range and as Valparaiso harbor’s importance grew in this part of the word the city had to expand up the “45 hills” that dot the southern side of the bay. Some views down streets reminded us of San Francisco however instead of cable cars Valparaiso has funicular railways, which like cablecars in San Francisco are considered a national monument.

A Valparaiso funicular in action.
A Valparaiso funicular in action.
The busy port of Valparaiso.
The busy port of Valparaiso.

Our first stop in the city was La Sebastiana, one of the homes of Pablo Neruda, a (Nobel/Lenin) prize winning poet who was also a diplomat and politician. I admit I had never heard of him until today and I left his former home with some admiration for the dedication to his art and his country. Apparently he was tired of life in Santiago and asked friends to look for a place to live in Valparaiso. They found a house designed by an architect who died before completing it, he bought it with friends thinking it was too big. He designed and decorated the interior himself and apparently gave quite the party to inaugurate it. The views of Valparaiso’s hills and harbor are impressive and I can see how he would be inspired by the views. FYI La Sebastiana was one of the three houses Pablo Neruda had in Chile, he married three times and had three different houses each unique. Unfortunately photography is not allowed inside La Sebastiana so visit the linked web sites to have a look. We could take pics of the views though…

La Sebastiana Museum House.
La Sebastiana Museum House.
The view from La Sebastiana.
The view from La Sebastiana.
The view from La Sebastiana.
The view from La Sebastiana.
A kiss at La Sebastiana.
A kiss at La Sebastiana.

We spent the rest of the time walking (only two of ) the hills of Valparaiso stoping off in eclectic art stores and admiring the graffiti artwork that is everywhere in this city. This art is encouraged by the city and anyone can overwrite (or overart) an existing piece. Truly unique I will let the pictures below do the talking.

One interesting point our guide noted was there was a battle of the War of 1812 that occurred in Valparaiso , the USS Essex fought two British ships and lost. Did not know this one.

Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
I like the irony in this photo.
I like the irony in this photo.
De Loras on (and around) art.
De Loras on (and around) art.
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
I liked this building paired with the VW bus.
I liked this building paired with the VW bus.
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Grafitti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso
Graffiti art in Valparaiso